Oil Based Composites- What I've learned

This is my attempt at helping others to learn from the mistakes I’ve made and hopefully to help anyone who is interested in making their own oil based composites. Thanks to Steve for the ICM mixes he released to the forum as well as thanks to nbully for releasing his calculators to the forum. I’d have NEVER tried this without it.

I have spent a lot of time, money and energy to find what works and what doesn’t work for me. By no means is this meant to be the definitive guide to how to make an oil based composite. Just my explanation of my experiences. Others may have different experiences with oil composites.

Part of the reason that I was interested in working with the oil based composites was because I’d had great luck with Scent of Eros and especially with A314. Both just seemed to last and last on me where I’d sweat off any alcohol sprays within a few hours.

Some things to consider…

Time and Patience
I discovered that when making a composite it really needs to sit for at least 7-10 days once everything is mixed together. It takes a lot of time for everything in the bottle to get to know each other and start to work together (I could give you the technical reasons but you can look that up elsewhere). One way that I found effective to determine how far along things are is to see how clear the mixture is. When you first put your pheros into the oil, it will be very cloudy. Over about 7-10 days it will slowly lose the cast and turn clear. It is ready to add any cover scent you may want. This is where the patience part becomes especially important as I’ll explain further down.

I should mention that I’ve tried it both ways as far as when to mix the pheros. I’ve tried putting individual phero ingredients into an oil base and I have tried putting the pheros together in the original alcohol base to composite and then after 7 days combining them into the oil. In my experience, all things being equal except when the pheros were combined with the oil, I believe I was getting ‘better’ hits from the composite where the pheros and the oil were all brought together at the same time.

Phero Strength
This is going to depend largely on the pheros that you’ve chosen for your composite. For the ICM mixes that I was compositing into oil form, I found that 5x concentration worked very well for both, with one exception. When I’d made my first batch of ICM 1b I used 5x the original amount of P83 that I put into my spray version of ICM 1b (12.5mcg) which is more than the 5mcg in Steve’s original formula. This was borderline OD territory and I had to use my oil sparingly. Made it much less user friendly but very effective when dosed correctly. This batch was not the easiest to dose correctly.

This is where trial and error will come in handy. More is not necessarily better in some cases and adjustments may have to be made to a formula because even at slower diffusion rates, too much of one ingredient can force your mix into OD territory. Balance is something that can be difficult to achieve when you are turning something that is supposed to be quicker diffusing into something that is mean to work for the long haul.

Don’t be too interested in trying to make a 10x batch. If you can get good diffusion with the oils, you don’t need nearly as strong a batch of pheromones. Having said that, in my experience if it is cool/cold outside, your pheros aren’t going to do anything when you have an oil on. As soon as you get inside however, that is where the fun begins!

Viscosity
I discovered that for me (I was using roll on bottles for most of this) that an ~1-1 blend of alcohol phero mix to oil worked very well at first. Eventually, I discovered that I liked the 25% pheros to 75% DPG with plant musks and cologne oil even better when I had a very well diffusing scent. The viscosity at 25% pheros to 75% oil was also very good.

Diffusion, Diffusion, Diffusion!
This is something that I found to be every bit as important as getting the phero strength correct. You could be using 100mcg of every ingredient, but if it doesn’t leave your skin you might as well be phero free. Androtics offers DPG with Plant Musks as well as DPG with Plant Musks and ylang ylang oil in a 6.6% concentration. I’ve tried both and found that when I was patient and let the mix composite that they both worked VERY well to improve the diffusion of the pheros. The cover scent that is chosen also makes a big difference.

When I first started with the DPG with plant musks, I didn’t let it sit long enough for the plant musk smell to composite out. After 2 weeks of compositing, the plant musk smell was basically gone. Unfortunately, so was the 6% Akuto scent I’d thought would carry my pheros. If you want to use a scent that goes in at the very beginning, get a strong scent such as the 20% cologne strength that Androtics offers. Otherwise it will composite out of the finished oil.

When adding a scent at a later time, wait until the oil is clear and free of a cast. Even if you are using the ylang ylang oil which does cover the plant musk smell very well hold off adding any other scent or it will composite in with the ylang ylang (unless that is what you want- I didn’t). Waiting the 7-10 days before adding a cover scent will ensure that you don’t smell the ylang ylang but you will get some of the benefits that it seems to have. It is almost as if it opens up the nasal passages and paves the way for the pheros.

The better your cover scent diffuses, the better your pheros will work. I was blown away by how strongly people reacted to the Common Scents version of Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille. It has exceptional diffusion and lasts forever on my skin. I was seeing hits that reminded me of the spray version of ICM 1a/1b from 10’ away while wearing this.

I’d also made up versions with just the phero mix in an alcohol base and a DPG cover scent (covered in the journals on the ICM oils). I found that even with the excellent diffusion characteristics of the Tom Ford, the DPG alone didn’t diffuse nearly as well as the DPG with plant musks and the DPG with ylang ylang did. My suggestion is to get it with the plant musks even if you choose not to get it with the ylang ylang. I was happy with it with and without the ylang ylang so that is more of a judgement call.

I should also mention while on the subject of diffusion that I’d made 2 batches that contained 25% of my original (5x) phero mixture as opposed to 50% like everything else I’d made. I was getting better hits with the 2 batches at 25% original strength than I was with the 50% strength batches. Some of this could be attributed to a potential slight OD but I believe the difference to be the diffusion. The diffusion was so much better that I could see hits from 3-5’ further out than I was with the other composites. Check out the ICM 1a pseudojournal for a record of one of those tests. November 16th report.

My process
Basically, my process from now on (unless someone comes up with something much better than what I’m using) goes something like this…

Just kidding! :slight_smile:

I wouldn’t leave you hanging like that!

  1. Decide what I want to composite and what strength pheros I want my ingredients to be at
  2. Decide between ylang ylang or no ylang ylang (I’ll definitely get the plant musks from now on)
  3. Use one of nbully’s calculators to come up with ratios of ingredients
  4. When ready, combine all the ingredients in with an appropriate amount of DPG and plant musks (shake VERY well to mix everything)
  5. Impatiently wait at least 7-10 days for the composite to lose its cast and become clear (feel free to shake the bottle occasionally- didn’t seem to hurt any of my composites)
  6. Decide on a cover scent (I’ll be sticking with the Common Scents for this because they are oil based, cheap, and diffuse very well)
  7. Add at ~15-20% by volume (shake) (this gives a scent strength that works for me)
  8. Decide on application form (roll on applicator or drops)
  9. Apply
  10. Enjoy all the attention my new oil based composite will bring me!

That is awesome applause. Thanks! :o

One more thing that I noticed I left out. You need a way to measure the pheros as you put them into the composite. I’m not as concerned with being 100% accurate so the pipettes that Androtics sells were good enough for me, just remember to basically double the number of pipettes you think you will need. I used a new pipette for every ingredient to eliminate cross contamination. In other words, I didn’t want to use the same pipette for my P93 that I’d use for my androstenone. Otherwise I’d have p93enone. :open_mouth:

Snoop, one quick question, what kind of alcohol is needed to add to mixes? I’ve been curious about this.

Whenever I refer to alcohol base phero mix or something similar, I’m actually referring to the pheros as they come from Androtics. A bottle at 'XX’mcg with alcohol added.

If you want to dilute them down to make your own lower mcg’s in a bottle (for example wanting a bottle of P83 at 25mcg when you already have a bottle at 50), Androtics does also sell perfumers alcohol for that purpose.

Alright Awesome guide! I would agree with you methodology 100%. I am getting my oil based creation almost completed. My first one will not have the plant musk. However, I will do a second one, and use the plant musk to check the difference. Thank you Snoopyace!

Hey Andrew, I was revisiting this thread to make sure I covered all my bases and I was wondering if you finished your composite and if so, how’d it work out for you?

LOL I am not sure what Oil composite I was refrencing here LOL. If it was the ICM 1b, then it is good. The plant musks, seem to make the strength of the cologne stronger. So I used FF20 as the smell, it works like planned. I did do 7x strength of alcohol version. The smell is strong after initial application. I wish I had used less, but after drydown it is at a more comfortable strength. I use it at work in my Air diffuser. It creates a very creative and upbeat enviornment!

I have made several oil composites since, I have done a few single molecules as add ons to A314. I have also begun using less oil to still get additional longevity however the diffusion of alcohol at the same time. I am still working on that, but one day I will perfect it. It is like a mutant alcohol blend. LOL

I like to use the DPG especially when using Putatives, seems to make them last longer.

I love the idea of using it in a diffuser! :slight_smile:

I’ve tried a few different ratios and 60/40 alcohol to DPG seems to work best for me.

how does this mix calculator work?

check the link below. It is an AMAZING calculator by nbully that seriously take the guesswork out of getting the proper ratios. :slight_smile:

Nice Snoop. So exactly what are the advantages to the oil based over the spray?

For me personally, the biggest advantage is longevity. I seem to do something to the alcohol sprays (especially in the Summer) where if I’m lucky, I get 3 hours out of it. With the oils I seem to get 5+ hours out of them, easily.

I also like the effects better from the oils. For some reason when I am around someone for more than a second or two the oils seem to hit harder. Just takes a small amount more time to really grab someone. I’ve seen quite often, however where the oils hit just as quickly as the sprays.

Something else I like about making the oils is that once the scent composites out, it is easier to cover with the cologne of my choice. I am not as concerned about whether my cover cologne clashes with Neroli.

I don’t worry too much about trying to fill a room with my phero cloud like I can with alcohol base sprays so diffusion isn’t an issue for me. By using the oil (and the DPG with plant musks) it helps the diffusion quite a bit. Most of my interactions are with people in a 5’ radius anyhow so for what I use the pheros for, it works fantastically.

The main downsides I’ve run across with the oils are that they cost a fortune to make compared to the sprays (but you get a lot more out of it) and that in cold weather the oils don’t diffuse nearly as well as the alcohol does.

What kind of time investment does it take to make these? I am sure that, with practice, you get better but… How long does it take to mix up a batch or two? I mean from a labor perspective… My free time per day is so small every little bit helps!

Thanks for such a thoughtful reply. Oh, i sent evolver a message… I am still working on my giant ass product review .. I have had some unusual success with TAF but I am respectful of its power. Kinda scary! Hah! Okay, sorry, no hijacking intended…

So, anyway, time requirements?

Actually, as far as the labor involved in mixing it up, it doesn’t take any longer than to make an alcohol based composite. Just measuring from the bottles with pipettes (unless you have more fancy equipment to measure with- pipettes are good enough for me). Doesn’t take very long at all if you are organized. Then for me I like the 1:1 ratio of oil to phero/alcohol mix so I mix equal parts of each and then let it sit.

The waiting is by far the most difficult part. :slight_smile:

Can you diffuse DPG on sprayer form???

What are you actually asking as I feel the word “diffuse” can be misconstrued. I’m also interested in your train of thought when asking this.

Yeah that was a bad choice of words late last night lol.

What I meant was, and I think its what you’re thinking too. If the delivery system can be an atomizer for DPG based mixes in the 75%DPG - Alcohol/Mone ratio